Today, let’s venture into the heart of the Eastern Himalayas, to a place where time feels as vast as the mountain peaks themselves – Tawang, in the breathtaking land of Arunachal Pradesh. Once whispered as a secret prayer on winds from Tibet, Tawang holds centuries in its embrace, a tapestry woven with threads of history, faith, and the resilience of its people.

The Monpa, an ancient tribe, were the first to fill these valleys with their songs. Tawang’s location, nestled near the McMahon Line – that delicate cartographer’s mark dividing nations – has shaped its story.

Here, in this town perched high among the clouds, remnants of the 1962 India-China war echo in the wind, a testament to a land caught between shifting tides.

A Journey of Faith and Changing Seasons

They say the best time to visit Tawang is when the weather is forgiving, between March and October. But perhaps the winter chill, the stark beauty of snow-kissed peaks, holds its own allure – an adventurer’s reward for braving the cold. For those who do, skiing adventures await!

Tawang’s heartbeat pulses to the rhythm of Buddhist chants. The Tawang Monastery, the second largest in Asia, stands sentinel, a whisper of Lhasa across the border. It shelters a golden statue of the Lord Buddha, a beacon of faith in this remote corner of the world.

The town’s people, their faces weathered like the mountainsides, carry a quiet warmth and a deep-rooted hospitality.

The scent of incense and yak butter tea,
Prayer wheels spin with hopes eternally,
Monks in crimson robes, a timeless scene,
Tawang whispers tales of all that has been.

The Flavors of Tawang

As the sun begins its descent, casting golden hues on the monastery’s spires, a different warmth stirs in Tawang. The scents of ginger and garlic sizzling in oil weave their way through the streets, a symphony of spices that beckons weary travelers and hungry locals alike. Makeshift stalls appear like vibrant mushrooms, their propane flames casting a warm glow against the encroaching mountain chill.

Here, find nourishment that transcends mere sustenance. Zan, a soul-warming stew of buckwheat noodles and fiery chilies, promises to ward off any lingering cold. Paratha-sabzi, flaky flatbread with savory vegetable fillings, fills the air with the comforting aroma of home cooking.

And then, the beloved momo, its steamed dumplings plump with spiced meat or vegetables, offering a burst of both flavor and tradition. Warm, fragrant thupka, a noodle soup steeped in the essence of mountain herbs, soothes and satisfies with each spoonful.

These are not just meals; they are moments of shared experience. A steaming cup of chai is passed among strangers, conversations blossoming like the delicate jasmine flowers that infuse the brew. Laughter rings out as friends tear off bites of paratha, sharing stories and warmth under the star-studded sky.

This is the taste of Tawang – simple, nourishing, and infused with the spirit of a community that thrives even in the shadow of giants.

A symphony of spices, a warmth in the air,
Tawang’s street food beckons, a feast to share.
Laughter and shared stories, flavors that sing,
Here, hunger is vanquished, and hearts take wing.

Beyond the Town Walls

Tawang’s beauty extends far beyond its vibrant streets. Madhuri Lake, nestled among the peaks, shimmers like a lost jewel, whispering a tale of love and loss. Pangateng Tso Lake stuns with its ethereal silence, reflecting the vastness of the sky in its mirror-still waters. But it is Sela Pass that truly tests the spirit.

A Journey on Windswept Heights: A Sela Pass Vignette

The road snakes upwards, a ribbon of dust against the unforgiving mountains. The air thins with every turn, each breath a tiny triumph. Prayer flags flutter like ragged birds against the relentless wind, their whispered prayers mingling with the whine of the engine.

Here, at 14,000 feet, the world is distilled to its essence: raw rock, defiant scrub brush, and the endless expanse of sky. It is a place of stark grandeur, where the pettiness of human concerns fades against the backdrop of eternity.

Somber Echoes: The War Memorials

Yet, even amidst such timeless beauty, there’s an echo of conflict. The Tawang War Memorial and Jaswant Garh stand as stark reminders of a war that scarred the land and its people. Here, the mountains hold a different kind of silence – a profound respect for those who fought and fell.

The wind still carries their stories, a testament to the enduring human spirit, even in the face of hardship and sacrifice.

Watch a video

Check out this video of a traveller travelling from Assam to Tawang. Video credit: Jyotirmoy Das

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